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By cemkomsuoglu
#195941
baris3d wrote:Thats mine. bI bought too 6 months ago. Lovely glider.
I take your keys :punch:
ingilizcesi pek ii olmadi ama idare et :mrgreen:
By Fletcher
#195960
Congrats
Discus14s are sweet
U R Gonna have SOOOOO much fun!
Let us know how it flys for you.
User avatar
By baris3d
#320482
Hi. I flew discus 14 for 4 years. First years pulling vg was very easy. Now its to hard to pull vg rope even in the air.I Checked that the routing of all VG ropes and pulleys is clear and straight.
I suspect pulley which in the right down tube. Is pulley fixed or moveable in the down tube ?
What is the possible solution about this issue.?[/code]
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By Fletcher
#320513
baris3d
Hope this will help to answer your question.
Please be careful when tightening the nuts on the nose plates of any glider!!!
MOST gliders have slotted nose plates so that the leading edges can flex without stressing those bolts or related hardware. Many are intentionally left loose enough to allow flexability in the nose area. Over tightening those bolts can lead to serious problems.
Please check with your dealer or manufacturer BEFORE making any adjustments or repairs you're not sure about.
Fly Safe
Fletcher
User avatar
By Paul H
#320515
baris3d wrote:Hi. I flew discus 14 for 4 years. First years pulling vg was very easy. Now its to hard to pull vg rope even in the air.I Checked that the routing of all VG ropes and pulleys is clear and straight.
I suspect pulley which in the right down tube. Is pulley fixed or moveable in the down tube ?
What is the possible solution about this issue.?[/code]
Are you still using the same VG rope? Some of them can get fuzzy with use causing drag through the pulleys.
User avatar
By J Fritsche
#320567
Fletcher wrote:baris3d
Hope this will help to answer your question.
Please be careful when tightening the nuts on the nose plates of any glider!!!
MOST gliders have slotted nose plates so that the leading edges can flex without stressing those bolts or related hardware. Many are intentionally left loose enough to allow flexability in the nose area. Over tightening those bolts can lead to serious problems.
Please check with your dealer or manufacturer BEFORE making any adjustments or repairs you're not sure about.
Fly Safe
Fletcher
I have tightened noseplate bolts on every glider I've owned. Not much, hopefully not TOO much. I hate it when I can't see ANY thread on the bolt beyond the locknut. Makes me nervous. I was never aware of what you've told us, Fletcher. I wish the manuals said something about that! Why don't they use very-slightly-longer bolts so that we can feel assured by the presence of a little bolt-threading past the nut?
User avatar
By red
#320583
Campers,

I can't answer why, for them.

If you over-tighten the bolts in a glider, plate assemblies may become cracked or damaged,
or the tubing may be crushed (ovalized). An "oval" tube is much weaker than it should be.

Here is what is needed, in the WIKI. You just need to order the right bolt sizes,
from an aircraft supply house.

http://www.hanggliding.org/wiki/Aircraf ... are_Basics
J Fritsche wrote:
Fletcher wrote:baris3d
Hope this will help to answer your question.
Please be careful when tightening the nuts on the nose plates of any glider!!!
MOST gliders have slotted nose plates so that the leading edges can flex without stressing those bolts or related hardware. Many are intentionally left loose enough to allow flexability in the nose area. Over tightening those bolts can lead to serious problems.
Please check with your dealer or manufacturer BEFORE making any adjustments or repairs you're not sure about.
Fly Safe
Fletcher
I have tightened noseplate bolts on every glider I've owned. Not much, hopefully not TOO much. I hate it when I can't see ANY thread on the bolt beyond the locknut. Makes me nervous. I was never aware of what you've told us, Fletcher. I wish the manuals said something about that! Why don't they use very-slightly-longer bolts so that we can feel assured by the presence of a little bolt-threading past the nut?
User avatar
By adyr
#398076
Hi,

I see that in this thread some had experience with both Funfex and Discus.

Would you please care to comment on the differences in handling between the two? How hard is to switch from Funfex to Discus?

The differences seem to be quite big, Funfex has an AR of 5.5, Discus 7.3. The first is only 60% double surface while the later is 90% or so and it has a VG.
Besides, it's a switch from 16 sqm to 13.7 and the Discus is much heavier...

I might switch to a Discus next year and I would like to know more about differences...

Thanks!